Finger Lakes Tour 2013

Recently we had listened to and watched stories of others on epic adventures and had consistently been inspired to have such an experience ourselves.  Kimberly suggested that we do a multiple day self-supported bike trip and I plotted out a course based on known good bike routes (NY 19, 5/20, bike 17).  Although, to visit two of our favorite places (Ithaca and Watkins Glen), we deviated from relatively flat terrain as both these places sit at the south end of large glacially carved Finger Lakes nestled in deep and steep valleys.

Our Route, as it was conceived, was to take us from our home in Allegany, New York to Letchworth State Park (LSP), Geneseo, Avon, Canadaiuga, Geneva, Ithaca, Watkins Glen, Corning and then back home.  We had definite intentions of having overnights in Letchworth (LSP), Canadaiuga, Ithaca, and Watkins Glen; otherwise were going to wing-it.  Google Maps projected a 336 mile route, but I anticipated some spontaneous route modifications as the trip unfolded.  What follows is our adventure as it transpired over the nine day endeavor.

Day 1 Saturday June 22, 2013:

We packed up the bike and hit the road mid morning hoping to get in 42 Miles.

We stopped for breaks in Cuba, then just before Caneadea at the Oramel Coffee Shop for Bitter Sweet Symphony ice cream (making Kimberly very Happy), and then at our intended destination in Fillmore.  We had hoped to stay at Just a Plane B&B – but it had apparently closed.  We were disappointed as we had hoped to get a ride in the owner’s open cockpit biplane over Letchworth State Park (LSP).  Denied!

We headed north with revised plans to either stealth camp at the south entrance of LSP or find another B&B in Portageville.   We stopped at a minimart to fill up on water and inquired about the closing of Just a Plane B&B and the attendants knew of a B&B just around the corner.  We called and decided to check it out.  We ended up staying there – Heaven Sent B&B.

Rode 50.3 miles – 3:58:19 riding time averaging 12.66mph, top speed 31.12.  We had a marvelous tail wind the entire way!  Rode 9 more miles today than intended.

We cleaned up and decided to cook our dinner of dill talapia on the jetboil on the B&B front porch. We also had broccoli, cauliflower, carrots with garlic cooked in the B&B’s microwave.  Delicious! Then we had coffee and chocolate as we listened to the Skeptic’s Guide to the Universe podcast as we relaxed on the front porch.  We also went for a little walk (as if we needed more exercise).  Kimberly developed a rash on her legs today much like the rash she had developed when we were in Venice.  Sat for a while with an ice pack on her ouchy looking (but purportedly pain free) legs.  All in all, it was a GREAT DAY!!

Day 2: Sunday, June 23, 2013

We had a very nice breakfast at Heaven Sent B&B. Then we packed up and headed out for our day in LSP at about 10 AM. Stopped at the Middle Falls for some pictures and then briefly to the Museum.

There was a major climb out of the Glen Iris area heading north.  We stopped at Inspiration Point and a few other overlooks. Lunched at Wolf Creek area (pb wraps, apple, and Kim’s gorp & nuts). The hot and muggy day combined with lots of climbing (and tired legs from yesterday) made for a challenging ride today.  The road through LSP is a rollercoaster!

We rode 18.67 miles, 2:01:49 riding time (over 4 hours with stops) averaging 9.19, 30.28 max. We set up camp at LSP Camp Grounds site 829. Threatening rain and some sprinkles in the early evening, but real rain passed us by. Cooked Chicken Teriyaki with Rice (Mt. House freeze dried). Had coffee and chocolate while listening to This American Life. Cleaned up – walked about- discovered our close proximity to the camp store & laundry facilities. Picked up frozen strawberry bars (Delicious)! We went back and attended to our laundry, walked about, and were inspired to get s’more makings. Laundry took a long time so s’mores were a late nite activity. Then straight to bed.

Day 3: Monday, June 24, 2013

We left LSP and stopped in Mt. Morris for tea and ice. Then at RiteAide for cortisone for Kim’s legs. On to Geneseo (with a brief stop at Fall Brook) and lunch at my favorite college town sub shop Aunt Cookies.  There was a new bike shop in town, love the name: CyclePath (kinda like psychopath).  Anyways, talked with the owner a bit and topped off the air pressure in my tires.  Also picked up a t-shirt and a water bottle.

Cruised swiftly with a big tail wind on up into Avon. Quite a contrast to Day 2’s grind. Had to bypass Tom Wahl’s (still full from Aunt Cookies), which was a very sad moment for me. I went to sleep last night thinking of Aunt Cookies for lunch and Tom Wahl’s for dinner.  Headed east on Rts. 20/5. The terrain was rolling and a bit more challenging, but we still had a great tail wind.  Managed 51.53 miles in 4:11:33 averaging 12.22mph, maxing out at 35.24. We ended up finding a great place to stay in Canadaigua, NY.

The Inn on the Lake sat on the northern tip of Canadaigua Lake and was Gorgeous!! We had dinner at The Sand Bar overlooking the lake. Got a burger and fries – not a Wahl Burger but very good and the location just made it all the better. We had oysters too – Kimberly had a grilled chicken sandwich & fries too! Walked east through a nice shoreline park – got some ice cream & sorbet – and ultimately returned to the resort and some Adirondack Chairs for a nice relaxing sit waterside. The whole night exceeded hopes and expectations.

Day 4: Tuesday, June 25, 2012

No adventure is truly an adventure without some adversity. Kimberly’s legs and just a portion of mine had some sort of rash (sun poison or something of the sort). Ultimately we decided to go to the ER @ Thompson in Canadaigua.  We spent several hours in the process, but Kimberly was prescribed prednisone to treat what was diagnosed as a Polymorphous Light Eruption. We had to take a cab to and from the hospital and then the long wait in the ER made us have to rush to check out (late).  We then headed off to Wegman’s for Kimberly’s meds and some lunch. We didn’t get on the road cycling again until about 2:30pm.

It was about a 14 mile ride to Geneva, but on the way we came across a detour that purportedly would take us a very long distance out of our way.  Talked to a guy at Lowes who gave us a good suggestion that paid out. He was a cyclist who had also done some long distance rides and he was impressed with our accomplishments and aspirations. Ultimately, the construction workers at the detour let us over the bridge (they were just putting on the finishing touches). From there on it was again a swift ride with a nice tail wind to Geneva. We stopped at Dunkin Donuts and scoped out a place to buy light weight leg covering for Kimberly (at Olympia) and Wegman’s for dinner to go. Also chatted with Kevin Vestel about Sampson State Park, which then became the day’s destination.

Road another 15 plus miles to Sampson State Park and encountered rain several miles from our destination (stopped under a maple tree in front of a quaint Mennonite home). We had young curious onlookers from the house. We also saw a rainbow as the rain passed and the sun erupted. Road on to Sampson and found a site (234) around 7:00 PM.

Today we Rode 33 miles in 2:29:47 averaging 13 mph – maxing out at 33:28.

Set up camp, showered, heated dinner (lemon garlic chicken breasts, rosemary potatoes, dill carrots, and zucchini stir-fry). Delicious, easy. and healthy too! Finished with some coffee and chocolate, then had visitors (Richard & Anita of Long Island) who were intrigued by our bike and excursion. They both were cyclists and Richard noted that he wished they had done something like this. They talked of a couple they met who took a year to ride around the entire country. Wow!  It was nice chatting with them.  It was a good day despite the early challenges.

Day 5: Wednesday, June 26, 2013

It was difficult to get to sleep last night – hot – restless; but alas, slumber did come, although it seemed intent on being light and elusive. Rain fell in the very early morning but it did not linger.

Had coffee lakeside despite the threat of showers. As we packed up (another dry tent) and headed out (10:00) we stopped by to say so long to Richard & Anita and they took pictures of us.

Rode South on 96A up to and along the ridge to Ovid where we stopped for ice, iced tea, and iced coffee.  We descended (more or less) to 89S and then began the rollercoaster ride south to Taughannock Falls State Park.

At Taughannock we rode up a veritable elevator shaft to the Falls Overlook. We enjoyed an apple with cheese, & peanut butter. Great snack with a great view. Then on to the Holiday Inn adjacent to Ithaca Commons.

Today we rode 36.77 miles in 3:12:58 averaging 11.43 mph, maxing out at 28.81.

At the Holiday Inn we showered and started laundry. Also rotated the tires and lubed the bike. Kevin arrived as I finished. We went to eat at Viva Taqueria & Cantina – great Mole Burrito & Tacos (and Flower Power too).

Then to an ice cream shop for ice cream & froyo. We watched the sun set over Cayuga Lake from Stewart Park. Beautiful! Kevin left at 9:00. We walked about for some supplies and back to the hotel to finish laundry and document the day. All in all a great day! We Love this town!

Day 6: Thursday, June 27, 2013.

Had breakfast at CollegeTown Bagels. Fine California Breakfast Bagel Sandwich and coffee. We packed up in the hot sun and hit the road by 10:00am.

Took 79 West toward Watkins Glen. Out of Ithaca it was a 6 mile, one-hour uphill grind. I can’t emphasize enough what an arduous grind it was. This hot, seemingly endless climb stressed us, our legs, my back, Kimberly’s bottom, and our patience.  It inspired reconsideration of the planned route, because evidently 79 goes straight over a bunch of serious hills (meaning that we will have more major climbs).  An attendant at Citgo suggested that we take Perry City Road to 227 to 79 to bypasses the major remaining climbs. It was fantastic advice!

The rest of the ride was very doable. We stopped a few times for breaks and water. Cruised down into Watkins Glen covering 29.23 miles over 2:53:13 averaging 10.12 maxing out at 32.63.   Thus far we had traveled 222.9 miles.

Searched for accommodations – had originally planned on camping at Watkins Glen State Park – but the climb up to the site and the impending soaking rain compelled us to stay at a Hotel. Ended up at the Colonial Inn Motel with simple accommodations. The Inn Keeper was very accommodating regarding our bike. We cleaned up and went off for an early dinner at the Wildflower Cafe. Kimberly had a Smokin Hop IPA. Great dinner – Kimberly loved her shrimp pasta dish.

It had started drizzling at around 4:00pm – not a heavy rain – but enough to create many camping inconveniences. Glad we stayed in town under roof.  We walked to the Glen (State Park) and hiked a portion of the gorge (only that portion that our legs would carry us up).

I was jonesen for some froyo. Found a place – decent – but then we wanted a decaf espresso – we were denied. None to be found in town. Strolled back to the hotel and sat on the porch as Kimberly attended to the Facebook posts of our adventure and I documented the day for this post. We were very tired at 8:30pm, but managed to stay up until 9:30.

Day 7: Friday, June 28, 2013

Steady rain at 7:30am compelled us to get a leisurely breakfast and wait for the rain to pass. I laid out a somewhat longer route to avoid the right-out-of-the-gate major climb from Watkins Glen directly to Corning (this added 16 miles to the day’s ride).   We took 414 down to Elmira where we planned on getting on Bike Route 17 and then on to Corning.

We enjoyed breakfast at Savard’s Family Resturant while doing a load of laundry at a local public laundry. Very nice breakfast (French Toast & Savard’s Grand Breakfast). Dined alongside many members of different race teams (getting their morning grub before a hard day at the Watkins Glen Grand Am).

We packed up and were all set to head out for our ride, but it began to rain heavily. We waited a bit longer and the rain did lighten up – mostly. We started south toward Elmira on a bike trail at first in heavy sprinkles.  The rain faded and the trail ended. We continued on 414 South with intermittent sprinkles. We stopped in the early afternoon to get some fresh picked strawberries (a treat) and take a brief break because we had a slight uphill grade the entire ride thus far and only covered around 12 miles. We then commenced a rolling but seemingly downhill grade to Horseheads, and then Elmira Heights where we stopped for lunch at Pudgies Pizza. Kim had a slice and salad and I had a dreadful turkey sub. It had cleared up, but a brief downpour occurred as we ate. The sun ultimately came out and it heated up. We stripped layers, lathered on the sunscreen and hit the road passing through Elmira.

We rode like the wind on 415 as large dark rain clouds approached from the south west. They appeared increasingly threatening so we stopped at a Dandy Mart in Big Flats to wait out the storm. It was a wet one. I ate yogurt & apple while Kimberly had a York Peppermint Patty and Coffee. We then rode on in light rain, heading toward blue skies. It was a swift ride through Corning and then onto 417 where we were about 12 miles from our destination (CampBell Campground). We stopped 5 miles before our destination at a veggie stand where we picked up some fresh picked veggies and fruit.

We then continued to the camp ground in Campbell and encountered a barrage of exceptionally kind people and very well developed RV Park accommodations.  The owner (Ed) brought us an extension cord, folding chairs, and a small table. Very hospitable. I set up camp as Kimberly showered then we cooked dinner. Mt. House Beef Stew plus the fresh veggies (we just picked up) sautéed in olive oil and garlic. Just as we were about to eat it began to rain – HEAVILY! We had no rain shelter as there were no trees to secure a rain fly. We and much of our stuff got wet. Neighbors very kindly offered their covered table and a sink with hot water.

I was pretty agitated by our circumstance and more than usual a-social as a result. Went to shower and ran into Ed who insisted that we move into a cabin. We ate first, had coffee, and I commenced the move as Kimberly washed the dishes. Moved all the stuff hanging lots up to dry – and then roasted marshmallows over the Jetboil and had s’mores. Read and wrote journal entries and relaxed. The cabin was much nicer than we anticipated and the kindness shown us was quite touching.

Rode 50.1 miles in 4:13:13 averaging 11.98 mph, maxing out at 29.74.

Total thus far: 273 miles

Day 8: Saturday, June 29, 2013

Slept well in our dry cabin. Got up and commenced packing as we enjoyed coffee and fruit. Rain free overnight but the tent was wet. Had a breeze and sunshine; therefore, we were able to let everything dry out. I then also lubed the bike after our wet ride yesterday.

Had a visitor stop by who wanted a picture of our bike and she graciously took a picture of us as well. She was a retiree from Florida traveling with her husband. Her parents had a tandem and our bike elicited some nostalgia. They were on a tour of Northeast US and Southeast Canada, and were on their way back home via Baltimore (to see one of their children).

Once the gear was dry we packed up, got ready to go, and then the rain returned. It poured actually, so we waited it out on our porch – very pleased we had a porch!

We ultimately left at 11:30ish in light sprinkles. Rode a quick 12 miles or so to Bath and stopped to get the lay of the land (where is the food?). We ran into a woman riding a 1968 Montgomery Ward single speed who told us where the bike shop was. We went to Wheels Unlimited for more lube and a tire pressure top off. Then to Subway for lunch and Tops for dinner makings.

Once all our dinner makings were stowed, we headed off toward toward Hornell. There was a long steady climb out of Bath toward Hornell, but a nice descent down into Hornell, at which point the Bike 17 route signs were inadequate and we got a bit lost.

We were ready for ice-cream & froyo at this point and having taken a wrong turn we serendipitously ended up at Friendly’s. We were able to charge our “batteries” and discuss the day’s destination. Andover was the goal, although we discovered (on the www a place in Alfred called Lake Lodge (purportedly 1.5 miles from the AU campus).

During the long climb along Bike 17 through Almond, to Alfred, and supposedly to Andover we realized that our legs and butts had had enough (49 miles in). We were close to Alfred and allegedly Lake Lodge, so we decided for the close-by option. But, what we didn’t realize was that Lake Lodge was not near the main campus, it was WAY UP on top of a very substantial hill about three miles from downtown. We were very tired and the climb was long and hard. Then, it began to rain!

After making it to the top, following a mutual character testing climb peppered with a fair dose of mutual bitching, we came across Lake Lodge. Had to look for the campground and the office, which was closed. We headed in and searched for a place to set up. Optimism waned as we saw our very limited options and were wetted by the steady drizzle. No tables, lots of RVs, and very few people. A kind gentleman camper stepped out into the rain to help us, and he directed us toward what was ultimately our spot. It was a flat spot that had a good location for the rain fly but no table. UGH! As we were considering our limited options, the camp ground’s keeper #2 (Pat) stopped by and detailed our options.

I asked if we might be able to borrow a table and some chairs.  He went back to his site to kindly obtain the requested items, and we commenced setting up the rain fly. He brought a nice big table, two TV trays, two chairs, and ultimately an extension cord. Very nice! We have found people to be very accommodating as we pedaled our way through the countryside. People were either very impressed by our journey OR they felt sorry for us two old crazy vagabonds.

Today we rode 52.37 miles in 4:42:27 averaging 11.12 maxing out at 29.48.

Total thus far: 325.3 miles around 64 to go?

Got the rain fly up and Kimberly went to shower. I cleaned myself up at the site (not always in privacy) and proceeded to set up the tent once the rain subsided. It was a wet cool night but our accommodations were “comfortable.”

Kimberly cooked ground beef, onions, with garlic and rosemary along with an asparagus vegetable medley on the jetboil as I finished setting up our sleeping arrangement. It was late as we ate (9:00 ish) so we didn’t do our normal coffee and chocolate. We cleaned up the dishes and Kimberly roasted some jetboil s’mores. I ate a bunch of graham crackers too. The jetboil is the handiest tool ever. Even roasts marshmallows.

Relaxed a bit then prepped for bed and hit the sack. Kimberly slept well, but it took me a while to get to sleep.  Once sleep came, it was sustained until the crows called, bright-and-early.

Day 9: Sunday, June 30, 2013

It was a damp but rain free morning. Everything was a bit soggy and the valley was blanketed in fog. No urgency this morning to get going. Kimberly made coffee and read, and I journaled.

As we packed up we realized that we now have this process down to a science and yet we are heading home today! We departed Lake Lodge around 10:30am with sunny skies for a change; however, as was the case over the last several days, T-storms were in the forecast.

We enjoyed a nice descent (3.8 miles) back down to Bike Rt 17, which was the killer ascent the night before. We then started another long series of climbs until we were just outside of Wellsville. The descent into town was delightful.

We stopped for lunch and chatted with an elderly couple who suggested Texas Hot. It was a bustling restaurant with good food. Ordered take out because there was a long line for a table. Had a grilled chicken sandwich and Kimberly had a chicken salad sandwich. We shared some sweet potato fries. Yum! Ate on a bench street side in front of the Restaurant.

Then came a long gradual ascent out of the river valley that felt quite steep but looked flat. This false flat terrain robbed us of our confidence. The gradual climb turned into a series of steep climbs followed by gradual then again steep climbs until we summited just outside of Bolivar. The ride down into Bolivar was fantastic. We stopped for a break in town, filled water bottles, had some tea, used the bathroom, and acknowledged the great weather we had had this morning. Then we heard a rumble of thunder and I sarcastically (but prophetically) stated that we couldn’t finish the day without some rain.

The remainder of the ride had mostly descending terrain, which made for a swift ride. That thunder we heard was followed by sprinkles, and the sprinkles by bonafide rain! We rode on, still at a fast pace, but I got soaked and then cold. We stopped in Portville to dry off and warm up. Apples, cheese, and then a warm cup of coffee hit the spot. We waited out the rain and once it stopped, we headed on with dark clouds looming in the direction of our travels. We cruised on toward Olean, but the dark clouds continued to threaten us.  It was just a threat until we stopped at Tops in Olean to use the restroom and pick up fish for dinner.  The rain commenced in earnest as we shopped. We were 30 minutes from home and we were stuck at a grocery store unwilling to brave the chilling rain. I had no fresh accessible dry clothing and when we stopped at Tops it was 71 degrees.  With the storm came a 6-degree drop in temperature. We waited for what seemed like forever and the rain lightened up. We headed HOME around 6:30pm in sprinkles that dissipated as we rode. We got home around 7:00PM.  We were mentally and physically exhausted.

Today we rode 63.13 miles in 4:52:40 averaging 12.94 mph (maxed at 33.99). A great pace considering we had two substantial ascents and a heavily ladened bicycle. Not to mention we rode 63 miles on tired legs after pedaling nine consecutive days.

Exhaustion, hunger, and the time pressure to pick up our little pupps by 8:00 PM made the return to the homestead much less celebratory than I had anticipated. The rush to get unloaded and cleaned up a bit, took precedence. But once I picked up the dogs and Kimberly showered and prepared a scrumptious dinner, we were able to let the accomplishment soak in.

Fatigue (mental and complete physical) reigned supreme. We ate, watched a beautiful sunset, enjoyed a cafe, exhaled and rejoiced!

Total distance 388.43!

The take-aways:

1. It’s amazing what you can accomplish if only you push yourself

2. People are amazing – generally kind and gracious – if only you give them a chance

3. Adversity is what punctuates life – it intensifies memories, lending laughter later, and giving greater perspective to the highs in the now

4. Food tastes better when you work for it

5. Just DO IT! While you still can